Alone around South Africa

Alone around South Africa
Quo Vadis?

About Me

"Why? Why would you want to do this?" By and large this is the standard response I get when people would learn of my intention of traveling around South Africa on my motorcycle. It usually gets worse when I mention the word, "solo." Utterances questioning my sanity and menopausal status abound. These, however, only serve to firm my resolve. After all, why shouldn't I experience South Africa with its beautiful and relatively unspoilt coastline, verdant green forests, wide - swept plains, the enigmatic Karoo, magnificent wildlife, craggy mountains and its diverse people, courtesy of my motorcycle? And the best is that I can spend as much or as little time at a place as I choose. So that's exactly what I will be doing. If all goes according to plan and my anxiously awaited panniers arrive in time, I'll be saying my good byes to friends and family very early on Wednesday morning, 24 April 2013. Check in every now and then to see where I am, what I've been up to and where this journey is taking me, both physically and philosophically.

Saturday 11 May 2013

3 May 2013 Day 5

I woke up early. It was beautifully quiet, save the hushed voices of my (only) neighbours in their tent some distance away from mine. I lay there for a moment, drinking in everything when, suddenly ... I heard a tip - tip sound against my tent. Being a seasoned camper, I immediately knew what this meant: rain! The next minute the heavens opened. The rain came down in bucket loads. I did a mental check, realised everything that could get wet was accounted for and shielded from the rain and then relaxed.
The view from my tent
This was the morning I was to set out for Stilbaai, but it didn't look too promising. Jumping on my motorcycle and riding off into the sunset ... Ok, scratch that. The problem was not riding off on my motorcycle. That did not pose a problem. Not in the least.

The real problem lay in attaching my soft panniers to my bike (in the rain), ensuring the big, yellow holdall is securely fastened on the pillion seat (while it is raining),  taking down my tent (in the rain), packing away the soggy, sorry mess (still in the rain) and then ride off in the rain.

I therefore resigned myself to the probability that, should the rain not abate, I may very well be spending another night in the Swellendam Municipal Caravan Park. Therefore I hauled out my iPad and started typing. My blog was a long way from being what I wanted it to be.

By half past one the afternoon, it looked as if my prediction might come true.

Then everything changed. As if from nowhere the sun came out. I grabbed my packed panniers

(I subscribe to the saying, "Hope springs eternal") and burst from my tent.

  1. The Tiger was packed and ready within a short while. I left the caravan park, stopping only for a quick lunch in town,

Soon I was on my way to Stilbaai. Although the ride was quite pleasant, gusts of cross winds marred it somewhat.

In Riversdale I stopped for a quick cuppa. It was while I was enjoying my coffee that the rain came down. Heavily!  I stood at the door of the restaurant and looked at my very wet bike and especially at its very wet seat!

There was a brief lull after the shower, so I took the opportunity, got on the Tiger and continued to 
Stilbaai.

Once again I had to contend with cross winds.

It was just about dusk when I rode into the pretty coastal town. By now the wind had picked up some more and a few drops started falling. I recall thinking to myself, "This is not good!"

After the second haphazard trip through both Stilbaai East and Stilbaai West, I was ready to call it a 

day.  I saw the signpost for another B&B to my left and on impulse turned down this road, which lead me eight kilometres away to Groot Jongensfontein. by this time the wind was fierce and the drops of 
rain that made its way onto my visor foretold of heavy showers any minute. Then I remembered the little shop still open around the corner. I made my way there, only to see the shop being closed and the lady walking to a waiting car in front of the shop.

For some reason the gentleman in the driver's seat failed to understand all my frantic signals. But the lady did. She got out of the car again and directed me to a B&B around the corner. 

The B&B was everything I could have hoped for and more! Christel, proprietor of Little Rock B&B was extremely accommodating and I had want for nothing! A hot shower, comfortable bed, luxuries such as TV and coffee and tea rounded it all off. I slept well that night.

The following morning I woke to the sound of waves breaking against the rocks and the most exquisite 

At breakfast I was again treated by the beautiful view of the sea right in front of me.

A little while later, after having taken leave of my hostess, I made my way to an Internet café in Stilbaai with the idea of downloading photographs and updating my blog. I forgot 
about a Saturday being open for the morning 
only. In fact I forgot that it was Saturday! So 
there I was at the Internet café with only forty five minutes left before closing time. I attached the 


camera to the computer and started downloading the photographs. For some inexplicable reason the 
photographs downloaded one at a time! 

Eight photographs later the Internet café closed its doors. Eight!

I was now on my way to Dust Riders. I was very impressed with the efficiency with which they handled my orders from them and wanted to meet them in person. 

A few minutes later I was even more impressed, for I had made a call to Dust Riders and discovered an interesting fact. Dust Riders operated from Stilbaai and their dispatching orders were even faster (and cheaper) than some city based businesses. The reason I was so impressed was that Dust Riders were not in the town of Stilbaai, but on a small holding a few kilometres outside Stilbaai! How's that for service!

I met Amanda at the gate of their small holding. She took a historical, for me that is, photograph of me riding my Tiger on a gravel road! 

I noted the efficiency didn't end with the business, for a tray with cups, koesisters and homemade rusks were ready on the table. As we spoke, we discovered that Chris, Amanda's husband, had been a diamond diver in the area I spend quite a few years working. Amanda and I discovered that we both attended the same school and that she and one of my younger cousins were best friends at school!

I left for George a while later. By now the inclement weather of yesterday was a thing of the past and the kilometres passed by very pleasantly.










I filled up with fuel just outside Mossel Bay and thought it good to have supper there as well. As I was about to leave, an elderly couple, sitting at a table some distance away, called out their blessing 
for a safe trip to me. We had a few minutes of chatting about Life and they then urged me to visit a good friend of theirs running a B&B on the road between Bergville and Clarens. Sparely and Engeltjie, may you be blessed.

I was booked in at a self - catering cottage in George and, according to my reckoning, getting there was as easy as falling off a log. Unfortunately I didn't fall of the log. Forty minutes later I found myself en route to Victoria Bay! I was not impressed with my (remarkable up to that very minute) GPS.

Humble pie was what I had to eat and I did. A phone call later set me on the correct route and soon I was at the gates of the establishment.

Tomorrow I would head for De Rust. I have heard so much about his little town and was keen to see what it all was about. I switched off the light and closed my eyes.

Once again I had to contend with cross winds.


It was just about dusk when I rode into the pretty coastal town. By now the wind had picked up some more and a few drops started falling. I recall thinking to myself, "This is not good!"



After the second haphazard trip through both Stilbaai East and Stilbaai West, I was ready to call it a day.  I saw the signpost for another B&B to my left and on impulse turned down this road, which lead me eight kilometres away to Groot Jongensfontein. by this time the wind was fierce and the drops of rain that made its way onto my visor foretold of heavy showers any minute. Then I remembered the little shop still open around the corner. I made my way there, only to see the shop being closed and the lady walking to a waiting car in front of the shop.

For some reason the gentleman in the driver's seat failed to understand all my frantic signals. But the
lady did. She got out of the car again and directed me to a B&B around the corner. 

The B&B was everything I could have hoped for and more! Christel, proprietor of Little Rock B&B was extremely accommodating and I had want for nothing! A hot shower, comfortable bed, luxuries such as TV and coffee and tea rounded it all off. I slept well that night.

The following morning I woke to the sound of waves breaking against the rocks and the most exquisite view! 

At breakfast I was again treated by the beautiful view of the sea right in front of me.

A little while later, after having taken leave of my hostess, I made my way to an Internet café in Stilbaai with the idea of downloading photographs and updating my blog. I forgot about a Saturday being open for the morning only. In fact I forgot that it was Saturday! So there I was at the Internet café with only forty five minutes left before closing time. I attached the camera to the computer and started downloading the photographs. For some inexplicable reason the photographs downloaded one at a time! 

Eight photographs later the Internet café closed its doors. Eight!

I was now on my way to Dust Riders. I was very impressed with the efficiency with which they handled my orders from them and wanted to meet them in person. 

A few minutes later I was even more impressed, for I had made a call to Dust Riders and discovered an interesting fact. Dust Riders operated from Stilbaai and their dispatching orders were even faster (and cheaper) than some city based businesses. The reason I was so impressed was that Dust Riders were not in the town of Stilbaai, but on a small holding a few kilometres outside Stilbaai! How's that for service!

I met Amanda at the gate of their small holding. She took a historical, for me that is, photograph of me riding my Tiger on a gravel road! 

I noted the efficiency didn't end with the business, for a tray with cups, koesisters and homemade rusks were ready on the table. As we spoke, we discovered that Chris, Amanda's husband, had been a diamond diver in the area I spend quite a few years working. Amanda and I discovered that we both attended the same school and that she and one of my younger cousins were best friends at school!

I left for George a while later. By now the inclement weather of yesterday was a thing of the past and the kilometres passed by very pleasantly.

I filled up with fuel just outside Mossel Bay and thought it good to have supper there as well. As I was about to leave, an elderly couple, sitting at a table some distance away, called out their blessing for a safe trip to me. We had a few minutes of chatting about Life and they then urged me to visit a good friend of theirs running a B&B on the road between Bergville and Clarens. Sparely and Engeltjie, may you be blessed.

I was booked in at a self - catering cottage in George and, according to my reckoning, getting there was as easy as falling off a log. Unfortunately I didn't fall of the log. Forty minutes later I found myself en route to Victoria Bay! I was not impressed with my (remarkable up to that very minute) GPS.

Humble pie was what I had to eat and I did. A phone call later set me on the correct route and soon I was at the gates of the establishment.

Tomorrow I would head for De Rust. I have heard so much about his little town and was keen to see what it all was about. I switched off the light and closed my eyes. marred it somewhat.

In Riversdale I stopped for a quick cuppa. It was while I was enjoying my coffee that the rain came down. Heavily!  I stood at the door and looked at my very wet bike and especially at its very wet seat!

There was a brief lull after the shower, so I took the opportunity, got on the Tiger and continued to Stilbaai.

Once again I had to contend with cross winds.

It was just about dusk when I rode into the pretty coastal town. By now the wind had picked up some more and a few drops started falling. I recall thinking to myself, "This is not good!"

After the second haphazard trip through both Stilbaai East and Stilbaai West, I was ready to call it a day.  I saw the signpost for another B&B to my left and on impulse turned down this road, which lead me eight kilometres away to Groot Jongensfontein. by this time the wind was fierce and the drops of rain that made its way onto my visor foretold of heavy showers any minute. Then I remembered the little shop still open around the corner. I made my way there, only to see the shop being closed and the lady walking to a waiting car in front of the shop.

For some reason the gentleman in the driver's seat failed to understand all my frantic signals. But the lady did. She got out of the car again and directed me to a B&B around the corner. 

The B&B was everything I could have hoped for and more! Christel, proprietor of Little Rock B&B was extremely accommodating and I had want for nothing! A hot shower, comfortable bed, luxuries such as TV and coffee and tea rounded it all off. I slept well that night.

The following morning I woke to the sound of waves breaking against the rocks and the most exquisite view! 

At breakfast I was again treated by the beautiful view of the sea right in front of me.

A little while later, after having taken leave of my hostess, I made my way to an Internet café in Stilbaai with the idea of downloading photographs and updating my blog. I forgot about a Saturday being open for the morning only. In fact I forgot that it was Saturday! So there I was at the Internet café with only forty five minutes left before closing time. I attached the camera to the computer and started downloading the photographs. For some inexplicable reason the photographs downloaded one at a time! 

Eight photographs later the Internet café closed its doors. Eight!

I was now on my way to Dust Riders. I was very impressed with the efficiency with which they handled my orders from them and wanted to meet them in person. 

A few minutes later I was even more impressed, for I had made a call to Dust Riders and discovered an interesting fact. Dust Riders operated from Stilbaai and their dispatching orders were even faster (and cheaper) than some city based businesses. The reason I was so impressed was that Dust Riders were not in the town of Stilbaai, but on a small holding a few kilometres outside Stilbaai! How's that for service!




In Riversdale I stopped for a quick cuppa. It was while I was enjoying my coffee that the rain came down. Heavily!  I stood at the door and looked at my very wet bike and especially at its very wet seat!

There was a brief lull after the shower, so I took the opportunity, got on the Tiger and continued to Stilbaai.

Once again I had to contend with cross winds.

It was just about dusk when I rode into the pretty coastal town. By now the wind had picked up some more and a few drops started falling. I recall thinking to myself, "This is not good!"

After the second haphazard trip through both Stilbaai East and Stilbaai West, I was ready to call it a day.  I saw the signpost for another B&B to my left and on impulse turned down this road, which lead me eight kilometres away to Groot Jongensfontein. by this time the wind was fierce and the drops of rain that made its way onto my visor foretold of heavy showers any minute. Then I remembered the little shop still open around the corner. I made my way there, only to see the shop being closed and the lady walking to a waiting car in front of the shop.

For some reason the gentleman in the driver's seat failed to understand all my frantic signals. But the lady did. She got out of the car again and directed me to a B&B around the corner.

The B&B was everything I could have hoped for and more! Christel, proprietor of Little Rock B&B was extremely accommodating and I had want for nothing! A hot shower, comfortable bed, luxuries such as TV and coffee and tea rounded it all off. I slept well that night.

The following morning I woke to the sound of waves breaking against the rocks and the most exquisite view!

No comments: